The Graves of the Saints
A week in Rome was spent mostly in pilgrimage, hunting down
some of the less famous holy sites (as well as the usual artistic pilgrimage).
In fact, it was interesting to see some of the more famous sites with very few
tourists, so perhaps, in retrospect, we should have taken the opportunity to go
to the Vatican again.
One of the happy discoveries was San Giorgio in Velabro,
which we hadn’t planned to visit, but just found open. It’s in the valley
between the Capitoline and Palatine Hills, with a lovely Romanesque campanile,
and an early medieval Ionic portico, in a surprisingly quiet spot. Just in
front is the rather clumsy “Arch of Janus” which is actually a sort of shelter
for fourth century market traders; “a work of the decadence” says the Blue
Guide. Attached to the side of the church is a much finer classical monument,
the Arcus Argentariorum, which dates from 204, and is a pretty monument erected
by Rome’s moneychangers to the emperor Septimius Severus and family (who
perhaps was not such a persecutor as Eusebius thought since this little arch
was allowed to remain). San Giorgio has a timeless atmosphere, a rather dusty
basilica, with sixteen random classical columns, and a fine thirteenth century
altar with its canopy above. Under the altar in the proper place (for a
basilica) are the relics of St George, brought there from Cappadocia around 750
by Pope Zachary. But not only is this the resting-place of St George, it was
the titular church served by St John Henry Newman, so he will have celebrated
at that altar, as Cardinal-Deacon of San Giorgio in Velabro. There is a
memorial plaque on the south wall, but the Holy Cross fathers, who look after the
church, do not seem to have cottoned on to the Newman connection, so nothing is
made of it.
For the first time I was able to get into Santi Apostoli,
next to the Colonna palace, and the parish church of the exiled Stuarts (the
rather modest palazzo in which Bonnie Prince Charlie was born and died is yards
away). It is surprisingly vast. There under the altar are the relics of the
apostles St Philip and St James the Less (“Pip ‘n Jim” as they used to be known
in Oxford), in a crypt decorated in the 1870s in the style of the catacombs,
which is really atmospheric. Near the apostles’ tomb is the beautiful
renaissance tomb of the father of Pope Julius (and brother of Sixtus IV). Also
buried in the church are Bonnie Price Charlie’s mother and the great renaissance
man Cardinal Bessarion, as well as the rather undistinguished Pope Clement XIV,
who has a very distinguished monument by Canova. There were many other relics
that we visited, but those will do for now.
The Rooms of the Saints
Another theme was rooms where saints lived or stayed. It was
not possible to visit St Ignatius’s room beside the Gesu, but we managed three,
and were thwarted with a fourth. Santa Maria Sopra Minerva (Rome’s only Gothic
church, as one is always told, though it’s only partially true) is currently
having works done, unspecified in nature, but which close the west end, so to
gain admittance it is necessary to walk round the block (a surprisingly long
way) to an entrance that brings you into the north transept. We did this as
they readmitted visitors at 5pm one rainy day, but the friar opening up put
very few lights on, so it was deeply gloomy and there was a very odd feel to
the building, with the whole nave cordoned off and sunk in darkness. Still, the
things you want to see are still accessible, most particularly the tomb of
Blessed Fra Angelico, which is right beside you as you come in that funny
entrance, and of course St Catherine of Siena’s effigy and tomb under the high
altar. In the gloom most people didn’t even notice that there are coin-operated
lights for some of the chapels, and so I performed a public service by
illuminating the chapel with the beautiful Filippino Lippi frescoes of St
Thomas Aquinas (though these are very expensive lights, 1 Euro per minute).
Beside that chapel is the rather nice Cosmati tomb of Bishop William Durandus
of Mende, a place of pilgrimage for liturgiologists (like me), because Durandus
was the great medieval theorist of the liturgy, finding mystical meanings for
everything that is done (or worn, or used) in church, not to mention church
buildings themselves. What made this visit particularly special, though, was
that we were able to see the room in which St Catherine died, which is at the
far end of the Sacristy. In truth, it’s not terribly emotionally-charged, since
it is clad up to the dado with very 1950s panelling, but at least you suppose
that the two little windows are authentic, and its very smallness gives you a
sense of the austerity of that remarkable woman’s life.
For austerity, though, St Gregory the Great’s stone slab on
which he meditated (and perhaps slept) takes the prize. This is in the church
that bears his name on the Caelian Hill, in a tiny room that was his cell,
quite out of alignment with the baroque church. This was his monastery of St
Andrew, from which he sent St Augustine to become the first archbishop of
Canterbury, so it’s tantalising to have traces of the ancient buildings under
the skin of the rather lovely later church. When modern archbishops of
Canterbury come calling, the Pope generally takes them to Vespers at San
Gregorio Magno, an action which is weighed down with significance.
On the site of St Gregory’s ancient monastery the
outstanding saint of the twentieth century, Mother Teresa (St Teresa of
Calcutta) set up her Rome headquarters, so you go through a garden gate beside
the church, and there, at the end of a path, is the enclosure of the
Missionaries of Charity. At specified times you can ring the bell and a sister
will show you the cell in which Mother used to stay when she was in Rome. It’s
small and very simple, and very evocative of the saint. In truth, it’s very
like the cell she had in Mother House in Calcutta; in fact the whole enclosure
looks terrifically Indian, which is a bit disconcerting. It seems really
appropriate that this modern reformer of religious life (though she never
thought of herself like that) should have acquired the use of that ancient
monastic site.
The one saintly room we were thwarted in seeing was the room
of St Dominic, where he lived for several years, and met St Francis, in the
Dominican house adjoining Santa Sabina on the Aventine Hill. Sadly that’s only
accessible on a guided tour, and they have been suspended. Santa Sabina,
though, is terrific. I can see why it was Comper’s favourite. Interestingly,
they keep it clear of chairs, as he liked his churches to be. It is a very
beautiful authentic fifth century basilica, restored in the ninth and
thirteenth centuries, but not much messed about. Terrific schola cantorum and
ambones, and apse with marble and porphyry revetment. There is fifth century
opus sectile inlay in the spandrels of the arches and round the apse, which
appears to have a chalice and host design, but the only panel of mosaic left is
on the west wall, with a huge inscription. Beneath that is the amazing fifth
century door, with carved panels of astonishing vigour, including what is
probably the oldest surviving image of the crucifixion in public art. That was
really something to see.
Working Title
On our last morning we slipped into San Lorenzo in Lucina,
which is on a quiet piazza just off the Corso, the smart shopping street. It’s
another church that preserves its twelfth century façade, with an ionic portico
and Romanesque campanile, though the interior has less charm. I was keen to see
the tomb of Poussin, the great seventeenth century French classical painter,
and also the relic of St Lawrence’s gridiron. As it happened, we couldn’t
wander around, because Mass was being said, with a congregation of five. It was
the feast of St Ignatius of Antioch. The celebrant, it slowly dawned on me, was
a cardinal (for he was wearing his red zucchetto) so it must be the titular of
the church. A swift google search subsequently revealed that this was correct,
and that we had been present at the Mass of Cardinal Malcolm Ranjith, the
archbishop of Colombo, and former secretary of the Congregation for Divine
Worship. He was using the Roman Canon, but otherwise it was a very Vatican 2
sort of celebration, not really his style. Our seats at the back enabled us to
view the tomb of Poussin, and the relic of the gridiron, so we got value for
our brief stay.
Test and Trace
Back last winter it seemed a good idea to return to our
honeymoon hotel to celebrate our first anniversary, and so that was what I
arranged, for June. Obviously that was impossible, when the Foreign Office was
advising against travel to Italy, and there were actually no flights anyway.
The hotel very kindly asked if I wanted to rearrange (which they didn’t have to
do) and so I picked a week in October which seemed feasible, and for which BA
was offering flights. As Italy seemed to be coping better with the second wave,
it didn’t seem such a bad idea, though BA told me five weeks ago that they had
cancelled my flights and were rebooking me on earlier ones, so clearly they
were consolidating flights because not so many people were travelling. As the
date approached we became anxious that the “travel corridor” to Italy might be
closed and that we might have to quarantine on return, but that didn’t happen.
I was concerned to discover from an Italian website that their authorities
would require us either to have had a COVID test within 72 hours prior to
arrival, (how exactly do you do that without symptoms?) or to take a test on
arrival, but that seemed a gamble worth taking. Then I was confused by the
forms handed out on the (half empty) plane which implied that this was not
necessary. It was; BA was wrong.
So, at Fiumicino, we found the COVID testing facility,
queued up, and had a swab test. Then after waiting twenty minutes we were
handed official certificates saying that at 6.30pm on Saturday 10th
October, we had tested negative. Most efficient. That all seemed very easy, I
have to say, though it would be a struggle if large numbers of people were
actually travelling, which they aren’t.
No such testing available on the way home, though, on what
turned out to be the last BA flight before arrivals from Rome became subject to
fourteen days’ quarantine, a flight that was pretty full of rather nervous
people. It turns out we were right to be nervous, as we have now had the
message from NHS Test & Trace telling us that we have to self-isolate for
fourteen days because we were in potential contact with someone who has tested
positive (on that flight). What a bore!